Tour de French Restaurants

Philip and I have decided to tour the French restaurants in the area and compare our experiences. Nominally, this is so that I can compile a little directory for my French students, who are obsessed with French food because it seems almost Martian to them, it's so foreign. Really, it's an excuse for us to eat out more. (Bad, bad, bad . . .)

Last night, to celebrate Philip's birthday, we went to Voltaire's in Scottsdale. According to the website, only swanky people like this eat there:



Unfortunately we didn't see any shiny-haired men with streaks of gray at the temple entertaining luscious blonds fifteen years younger. We found that the clientale was really more of the "wealthy sixty-something" type.

Which meant that we felt right at home.

From the moment we entered, we knew this was our sort of place. There was a large sign asking us to turn our cell phones off before we entered the restaurant. Then Martin, the maitre d', greeted us like friends and took us to our table. Because the restaurant was so small and yet uncrowded, everyone spoke in hushed tones so as not to be overheard or disturb others. The atmosphere was one of civility and courtesy and homeyness. We sat next to a little old British couple who were apparently frequent visitors to the restaurant, as the maitre d' brought the woman a little cushion to sit on and all of the waiters knew exactly what they ordered. I didn't ask Philip, but I myself was wracked with jealousy by how classy this couple was, despite the woman's bright teal polyester suit.

I also loved that the restaurant was absolutely unbattered by trends. The wallpaper was a mix between the Wedgewood china pattern we don't own and the Pottery Barn bedspread we almost bought. The waitresses wore black vests, bowties, and pleated white dress shirts that refused to compliment, much less flatter, anyone's figure. The menu was small, which bespeaks confidence. Yes, Voltaire's has old-school style.

Philip and I both began with soupe à l'oignon parisienee. It was the best French onion soup I've ever had--veal stock with gruyère melted on top. For the main course, Philip had steak au poivre (pepper steak) and I had canard à l'orange (orange roasted duckling). Both came with the chef's selection of vegetables, in which he managed to make eggplant taste divine. For dessert, I had crème brûlée (the only part of the meal I found a little lackluster, despite the fact the a NY chef had sworn Voltaire's Chef David to secrecy about the recipe) and Philip had profiteroles, a dessert he had one night when he was visiting me in Paris. I was so happy with the meal that I felt the $107 bill was fair and just.

Voltaire's probably won't be my first recommendation to my students, as it's not really a "family" restaurant. But I think it will be hard for me to find another French restaurant I like better.